Spring is here, and if your pool has spent winter under a cover or simply being ignored, it is time to wake it up. A good start-up now saves you from chasing cloudy or green water in December when everyone wants to swim.
This checklist is the same process we talk customers through at our Geelong pool shop every October. Most pools can be summer-ready in a weekend.
Key takeaways
- Clean first, then check equipment, then balance the water, in that order.
- Balance pH and alkalinity before you worry about chlorine.
- A green pool is fixable: shock, brush and filter continuously.
- Do a pool fence and gate check before the first swim.
Step 1: Remove the cover and clean up
If you use a cover, pump or sweep off any water and leaves sitting on top before you pull it back. Otherwise all that debris ends up in the pool. Clean the cover with a soft brush and hose, let it dry fully, then roll and store it out of the sun.
Next, get the big stuff out:
- Skim the surface with a leaf net.
- Empty the skimmer basket and the pump basket.
- Brush the walls, steps and floor towards the main drain.
- Vacuum, or let your automatic cleaner do a full cycle.
Brushing matters even on a fibreglass pool. It lifts the film of dirt and early algae so the filter can catch it. If your pool has Vantage in-floor cleaning, check that each pop-up head rises and rotates freely once the pump is on.
Step 2: Top up the water level
Winter evaporation is low, but rain and backwashing change the level. Water should sit about halfway up the skimmer opening. Too low and the pump sucks air. Too high and the skimmer cannot pull debris off the surface.
If you have had a lot of rain, the water may be above the skimmer. Lower it by backwashing or using the waste setting on your multiport valve.
Step 3: Check and service the equipment
Before you run the system hard for summer, give every part a once-over. Problems found in October are much cheaper and faster to fix than problems found on Christmas Eve.
| Equipment | What to check | Sign of trouble |
|---|---|---|
| Pump | Primes quickly, runs smoothly, no leaks at the lid or unions | Screeching, humming without starting, air bubbles in the basket |
| Filter (sand / glass) | Backwash and rinse; check pressure gauge | Pressure stays high after backwash, sand in the pool |
| Filter (cartridge) | Remove and hose clean; soak in cartridge cleaner | Torn pleats, crushed ends, cartridge older than 2–3 years |
| Salt chlorinator | Inspect cell for white scale; check salt reading | Low output warnings, heavy scale, error codes |
| Heater / heat pump | Clear leaves from the unit; test it heats | Error codes, ice on the coil, not lifting temperature |
| Automatic cleaner | Hoses, wheels and brushes intact | Gets stuck, misses areas, cracked hoses |
| Lights and timers | Lights work; timer set for summer hours | Flickering, condensation inside the light |
Set your pump timer for summer. Many pools run around 6 to 8 hours a day in warm weather, split across the day. If you are still on an old single-speed pump, spring is a good time to price a variable-speed upgrade, which can cut pump power use significantly. Our guide to pool running costs shows where the savings come from.
Step 4: Balance the water
With the pool clean and the equipment running, test the water. Balance in this order, because each step affects the next:
- Total alkalinity first. It stabilises pH.
- pH next. It controls how well chlorine works and how comfortable the water feels.
- Calcium hardness to protect surfaces and equipment.
- Stabiliser (cyanuric acid) for outdoor pools so the sun does not burn off your chlorine.
- Salt, if you have a chlorinator.
- Chlorine last.
| Test | Typical target range | Too low | Too high |
|---|---|---|---|
| pH | 7.2 – 7.6 | Stinging eyes, corrosion | Cloudy water, weak chlorine, scale |
| Total alkalinity | 80 – 120 ppm | pH swings | pH hard to lower |
| Free chlorine | 1 – 3 ppm | Algae, bacteria | Irritation, bleaching |
| Calcium hardness | 200 – 400 ppm | Aggressive water | Scale on surfaces and cell |
| Stabiliser (CYA) | 30 – 50 ppm | Chlorine burns off fast | Chlorine works more slowly |
| Salt (chlorinated pools) | Per your chlorinator manual | Low chlorine output | Salty taste, possible equipment wear |
General guide only. Always follow your equipment manufacturer’s settings and the instructions on chemical labels.
Add chemicals one at a time with the pump running, and give each a few hours to circulate before re-testing. Never mix chemicals together in a bucket.
If you are thinking about switching water systems this season, our comparison of saltwater, chlorine and mineral pools is a good place to start.
Step 5: Rescue a green pool
A green pool in spring is common, especially if the pump was off for long stretches over winter. It looks bad but it is fixable.
- Clear the debris so the chlorine is not wasted on leaves.
- Balance pH to the low end of the range so chlorine works at full strength.
- Shock the pool with a large dose of chlorine, following the label for your pool volume.
- Brush everything, then brush again the next day.
- Run the filter continuously and clean or backwash it often. It will clog quickly.
- Re-test and repeat until the water is clear and chlorine holds overnight.
Once the water turns cloudy blue, you are winning. A clarifier can help the filter catch the fine particles. Do not swim until chlorine is back in the normal range.
Step 6: Check the pool fence and gate
This is the step people skip, and it is the most important one. Before anyone swims:
- Check the gate self-closes and self-latches from any open position.
- Clear anything climbable away from the fence: pot plants, chairs, eskies, ladders and the barbecue.
- Check panels, hinges and glass clamps are secure.
- Look for gaps under the fence after winter rain or garden work.
Victoria has specific rules on pool barriers and registration. Our plain-English guide to pool fence rules in Victoria explains them.
Common spring start-up mistakes
We see the same few problems every October. Avoid these and the rest is easy:
- Shocking before balancing pH. If pH is high, much of the chlorine you add does very little. Bring pH into range first.
- Not cleaning the filter. A filter that has sat dirty all winter cannot clear a cloudy pool, no matter how much chemical goes in.
- Adding everything at once. Chemicals can react with each other. Add one, let it circulate, test, then add the next.
- Testing straight after dosing. Give the water a few hours to mix, or your reading will be wrong.
- Forgetting the salt cell. A scaled cell produces far less chlorine. A quick clean often fixes a pool that “won’t hold chlorine”.
- Running the pump too little. Winter hours are not enough once the water warms up. Increase run time as the weather heats.
Step 7: Plan for summer
A few small habits keep the pool easy all season:
- Test the water weekly and after storms or heatwaves.
- Empty the skimmer basket every few days in leaf season.
- Keep the cover on when the pool is not in use. It holds heat and cuts evaporation and chemical use.
- Book any heater or heat pump service early. Our guide to pool heating options explains the choices if you want to extend your season.
Quick checklist
- Cover off, cleaned and stored
- Skimmer and pump baskets emptied
- Pool brushed and vacuumed
- Water level halfway up the skimmer
- Pump, filter, chlorinator, heater and cleaner checked
- Timer set for summer hours
- Water balanced: alkalinity, pH, hardness, stabiliser, salt, then chlorine
- Fence and gate checked, climbable objects moved
Frequently asked questions
When should I start up my pool in Geelong?
Most Geelong pool owners start in October so the water is clear and balanced before the first warm weekends in November. Starting early also gives you time to sort out any equipment problems before the summer rush on parts and service calls.
How long does it take to clear a green pool?
A lightly green pool can clear in two to three days of shocking, brushing and continuous filtration. A dark green or black pool with heavy debris can take a week or more and may need several shock doses and frequent filter cleans.
What chlorine level should my pool be?
Aim for free chlorine of about 1 to 3 ppm for normal swimming. After shocking, wait until the level drops back into that range before anyone swims. Always follow the product label and your test kit instructions.
How often should I test the water in spring and summer?
Test at least weekly, and more often after heavy rain, a hot spell or a big pool party. A water sample tested in store every month or so is a good cross-check on your home kit.
Do I need to run my pump longer in summer?
Yes. Warmer water and more swimmers mean more filtration. Many pools run around 6 to 8 hours a day in summer, but the right number depends on pool size, pump type and use. A variable-speed pump can run longer at low speed for less power.
Can Gordon Ave help start up my pool?
Yes. Bring a water sample to our Geelong pool shop for a free test and tailored advice, or contact us to arrange service, equipment repairs or upgrades.